Papa, do dragons still exist?

20 years in Africa didn't transform me into a Jungle Boy, but firmly linked my heart to the wildlife and places of overwhelming nature on our globe. 2005 I had the opportunity to see for the first time the fascinating Orang Utah. F2F! Indeed looking straight into that big pair of eyes while they observe you in a calm, though mimic manner. 2012, traveling eastwards from Sumatra, visiting friends in Java back from my time at Nias, it therefore came into my mind to find a way to see the unique Komodo Dragons in nature.

Approaching the Komodo National Park takes its time. And a boat. Visitors are not allowed to stay on one of the two main islands of the park, though this is not related to the circumstances that feeding the dragons was suspended in the late 80ies. It is said the population is growing, and my recent visit to Rinca and Komodo at least does confirm a great number of deer as well as buffalo. "In hard times they turn cannibals", my accompanying park ranger explained.

Therefore I continued my journey from the Bromo region onto Bali, to fly from Denpasar to Flores, some islands further east. The small fishing harbor Labuan Bajo is the main gateway to charter a wooden boat for the 2-day trip to the neighboring islands comprising Komodo National Park. After arrival, I managed to join a group of four, and already next morning we boarded one of the adapted open wooden boats together with a captain and a cook, for an unforgettable tour of trekking, snorkeling and delicious Indonesian food.

The first leg of our trip took us along the coastline to Rinca. It is already amazing to see this species of giant lizards hanging out in the shadow below the warden's kitchen - "for the smell of food" as a ranger explains - but the first encounter with a close to 3-meter dragon, resting in a shady dry river bed just next the skeleton of a buffalo killed a month ago, that is somewhat frightening. "Stay in a group" signboards remind you not to fall behind while following a park ranger on a trek through the dry bush. Dare to challenge that.

Crossing the sea to Komodo island to find a place to anchor for the night, allowed a short stop next a coral reef, while some deers grazing in distance in the late afternoon sun indicated we are on course: in expectation of the real Komodo Dragons. I admit, my imagination was not that far from the opening scenes of Spielberg's Jurrasic Park. Off course, the night on the open boat just intensified my feelings, spending hours looking up into a sky full of stars and listening to the sounds of the nearby mangrove forests, providing shelter and food for some of the islands wildlife population.

In the early morning hours the noise of hundreds of flying foxes, returning from the other side of the bay, brought me back from dreamland to a not less impressive sunrise over Komodo, and after a breakfast on board I was curious for a second encounter with the dragons.

What a reward to make the efforts coming all the way for two adventurous days. Only 10 minutes into our morning trekking, some noise in the bushes behind made me turn around, just to suddenly face a dragon crossing the path in search for the nearby water hole. I immediately stopped walking and looked for any sign of the guide. My heartbeat jumped up, while the giant reptile disappeared in slow movements again in the bush. Indeed, it was worth all the efforts.

On the way back we anchored along a reef renown for the sightings of manta rays. It took not a few minutes till the first black shadows glided with smooth wing movement below our boat. "Manta, manta ... jump quick, jump". It is said the captain's command is law on the sea. However, it was not necessary to enforce the law, I already jumped straight into the sea, following one majestic black manta till I lost the visual contact in deeper grounds. I do know why I prefer to live seaside. The last two days have been only a vivid reminder in my search for a new place to stay. Be it on my journey around the globe, or thereafter ...

Link to pictures from my trip to the Komodo National Park:
A boat trip to Jurrasic Park - just it's real
Komodo National Park - Trekking on Rinca and Komodo islands
Komodo National Park - THE DRAGONS ARE ALIVE