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Showing posts with the label Iriomote

Yaeyama islands - camping @ Iriomote-jima

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Iriomote-jima has three campgrounds. One down south at Haemida Beach - right there where the road ends and the jungle takes over. There's no bus and you'll need to walk about 6km from Ohara ferry port. It's surely basic with no electricity, nor showers. In addition the next mini-market is back in town. Hoshizuna Campsite on the upper side of the island was my first choice, mostly because of its location just above the star-sand beach and a restaurant nearby (that also manages the campground). Indeed, the location as well as the garden setting didn't disappoint. But again, for an individual backpacker without a campgear stuffed car, no good deal. There's no covered space, nor any table set. No electricity outlet (except one lamp in the only toilet) either. And to take hot shower you have to be in time (during limited opening hours of the restaurant). So I moved to Mitorea Camping, about 2km from the ferry port and shops at Uehara. There's ...

Yaeyama islands - camping @ Ishigaki-jima

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Although I toured the globe with a tent in my backpack for decades - preferably on my motorbike - this is my first camping experience in Japan. I spent now two weeks on Iriomote-jima and Ishigaki-jima at three out of five listed campgrounds. Three campsites are on Iriomote and two on Ishigaki, whereas the supposed best located campground on Yonehara Beach continues to be closed since last year. Don't be fooled, as still a busline 'Yonehara Campground Line' runs daily from the airport to the west coast. Therefore Inoda Auto Campground was the only option on Ishigaki - spacious and directly located in dense native bush right at Inoda Beach. There is a reception and reasonable facilities, like a sanitation block with hot showers, covered cooking facilities and a mini-shop. End of March temperatures are still around 20 degrees and weather - probably all year round - is rather changeable. Too early for swimming, except you have a wetsuit for some of the b...

Akiko Ishigaki - a life of design and weaving fabrics

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On my last visit to Japan a visit to Iriomote-jima was on my radar - however, the Covid pandemic affected not only my travel plans. The thought wasn't lost, especially when a few months ago an episode by 3Sat documentary program 'Universum' provided an impressive inside to the subtropical jungle island and its unique hidden gems. And one of them definitely is 80-years old textile designer Akiko Ishigaki, known and widely acclaimed for her traditional weaving techniques. Unfortunately I had no appointment and started this morning by chance a trip to Kuuru Koubou, a hidden place settled between the sea, mangroves along river Urauchi and dense vegetation. 'Yes, this must be her workshop', I thought immediately when approaching a house under a big shaddy tree and lots of small artifacts. 'If I might meet her and not bother her in showing up with not much more than my admiration and respect?' I found myself alone in a place of ...

Iriomote crossing jungle trail

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Iriomote-jima is almost fully covered by dense subtropical jungle. And one of the highlights to come that far south is the Iriomote Crossing Jungle Trail. The trail literally crosses the island from northwest to southeast, and its a full day hike in subtropical jungle conditions. Starting point usually is up north at the Urauchi river, catching the first tourboat up 4km along mangroves to the picturesque waterfalls. And here also ends the sightseeing trip, as from here the trail up along the wild riverbed will wind through dense jungle for about 13km and an additional 7.5km gravelroad to the opposite side of Iriomote-jima. Eventually you have to register and apply for a permit to enter and cross the National Park and Conservation Area. However, I was lucky to meet two young Japanese backpackers - Taketo and Yoshiyuki - that already organised their entrance permit and were ready to start early next morning. Kindly they accepted to join them ... and of...

Iriomote - the forgotten jungle island

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2020 - when Covid19 crossed my travel plans and suddenly flights between Europe and Japan got cancelled - I thought it is a surprise invitation to discover some of the remote islands stretching from Kyushu down south close to Taiwan. Wishful thinking - the 'New Normal' asked people to limit movement within their own prefecture. Eventually, the remote islanders themselves asked not to visit. Probably the frightening images from Europe made them aware of their own situation - a mostly elderly small population on remote islands with limited healthcare facilities, hospitals not to mention. Well, the pandemic waves passed and the health system could handle the situation, as no tourists from the main islands were to show up for two years. However, small remote islands - green dots surrounded coral reefs in deep blue sea - these days mainly receive their income from tourism. So far, so bad, as on my visit now in 2023, a soft landing for local tourism by a natio...

Island hopping and camping in remote Ryukyu Islands - Japan

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2020 ... the year my travel experience entered a new dimension, as i got locked up for 7 months in Japan. More precise, in Fukuoka - as traveling the country was out of question and flights between Asia and Europe were literally stopped. But there's always a good surprise. The planned first visit of my siblings to Japan was cancelled, but I was rewarded to extend my time with my wife ... yep, she's living in the modern city of Fukuoka to take care for her elderly parents.  2023 ... I'm back to Fukuoka ... the borders recently were opened to foreigners. And this time it's travel time - not only Japanese are keen to see spring and 'Sakura' arriving down south. Although with a closed airspace over Russia and Ukraine the route takes a large U-turn. The Ryukyu Islands - a vast number of mostly tiny sub-tropical islands streching over 1000 km from Taiwan up to Kyushu - are on my agenda. Not for a short luxury holiday in Okinawa, but a 'trip into the wi...