Christian's Travel Blog

Visiting the Amami-Oshima World Heritage Conservation Center located near the second largest mangrove forest in Japan gives a comprehensive introduction of the subtropical islands nature - forests and plants - and animals.     As Amami-Oshima is the second largest island in the Ryukyus, I decided to explore the island by rental car. There is a good public bus system, but as a one-time exception, the flexibility a car offers made it more convenient to enjoy the nicely arranged 'bucket-list' by Ryuko: mangrove canoeing, mud cloth-dyeing and subtropical native forest hiking. The authentic Amami-Oshima TSUMUGI high-quality silk fabrics are handcrafted with a lot of work, effort and time. A visit to the museum and especially to the weaving handcraft process by local women and men surely is one of the highlights touring the island. Up north there's another unique sight - up a winding road you'll reach an observation deck (that eventually is a starti...

05h30 ... the alarm clock signals time to get up and walk from the nearby Nest hotel to Naha port, boarding the daily A"LINE ferry. These days most people fly in or out, as airfares mostly are cheaper and of course flights save time. But still the ferries are the backbone to connect the scattered Ryukyu islands with "mainland" Japan, that itself consists of the four major islands - Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. When it comes to 'islandhopping' my choice was clear from the conception of this journey - it has to be by ferry! As any roadtrip, the goal is not to go from A to B, but rather the encounters along the way. As it turned out, I started my Ryukyu islands adventure not as thought from Kagoshima downward island by island, but due to seasonal considerations with a flight to the most southern Yaeyama islands and then hopping back towards Kagoshima. One month into my journey - visiting so far six islands - I decided ...

Tripadvisor has a list (by ranking) of 26 campgrounds on Okinawa and surrounding islands. By now, my island hopping introduced me to six islands of the Ryukyu archipelago, or in other terms, 4 weeks by camping on three of them. So what about Ama Beach Campground on Zamami-jima? Interestingly it is not mentioned at all by TripAdvisor ... Today it's already a week that I arrived from Naha by ferry - on the cheaper cargo ferry a two-hour crossing with a short stop at Aka-jima. And I'm still not departing this pearl in the Keremashoto National Park. Ama Beach Campground.So close to the touristic hub Naha (Okinawa), a hidden secret in terms of camping right at an incredible turquoise beach - and still it escaped the mighty virtual eyes of TripAdvisor. Let it be like that. I won't put it on TripAdvisor's ranking on top. It's just right as it is. One of those few places - like the one at Maupiti in French Polynesia, or 'U...

Iriomote-jima has three campgrounds. One down south at Haemida Beach - right there where the road ends and the jungle takes over. There's no bus and you'll need to walk about 6km from Ohara ferry port. It's surely basic with no electricity, nor showers. In addition the next mini-market is back in town. Hoshizuna Campsite on the upper side of the island was my first choice, mostly because of its location just above the star-sand beach and a restaurant nearby (that also manages the campground). Indeed, the location as well as the garden setting didn't disappoint. But again, for an individual backpacker without a campgear stuffed car, no good deal. There's no covered space, nor any table set. No electricity outlet (except one lamp in the only toilet) either. And to take hot shower you have to be in time (during limited opening hours of the restaurant). So I moved to Mitorea Camping, about 2km from the ferry port and shops at Uehara. There's ...

2020 - when Covid19 crossed my travel plans and suddenly flights between Europe and Japan got cancelled - I thought it is a surprise invitation to discover some of the remote islands stretching from Kyushu down south close to Taiwan. Wishful thinking - the 'New Normal' asked people to limit movement within their own prefecture. Eventually, the remote islanders themselves asked not to visit. Probably the frightening images from Europe made them aware of their own situation - a mostly elderly small population on remote islands with limited healthcare facilities, hospitals not to mention. Well, the pandemic waves passed and the health system could handle the situation, as no tourists from the main islands were to show up for two years. However, small remote islands - green dots surrounded coral reefs in deep blue sea - these days mainly receive their income from tourism. So far, so bad, as on my visit now in 2023, a soft landing for local tourism by a natio...