Murihiku - The Southern Land

"No country upon Earth can appear with more ruged and barren Aspect than this doth; from the Sea as far inland as the Eye can reach nothing is to be seen but Summits of these rocky Mountains, wich seem to lay so near one another as not to admit any Vallies between them." (Capt. J. Cook, 1770)

Twice I toured New Zewland some 20 Years ago. I admit, only now I may say "I was THERE"! No excuse, but my former trips were at the edge of winter time and access to the "must-do" Milford Sound - eventually, as it was shaped by glaciers, a fiord by geological definition - just wasn't possible. But this time around, it's summer time!

"ROAD 94 TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND CLOSED" displayed the digital board in bright yellow capital letters. Oh no, not again. Not this time. I know, the weather is not only unpredictable in Fiordland, but also met-news indicated forecasts of heavy rain and gale winds for the next days ahead. "That's not fair" I childishly would like to scream. However, weather out here IS changable  ... so why not defying todays rain and approach the Mitre Peak as close as road conditions allow?!

Indeed, some glimpse of sun broke through, only to disappear before I even could grab my camera, while driving up along spectacular mountanious scenery. And as anounced, the rain got worse. By the time I reached Lake Gunn, the last campsite before turning towards the Homer tunnel, several creks rushing down the rocks forced authorities to close it for the night. Ok, don't give up easily - going back a few minutes to spend another night in my hatchback. At least it's dry ... and who says you can't have a splendid supper in style: "Wie ein Kaiser" one might think, enjoying some Austrian KAISER beer (Kaiser = emperor).

Early next morning: a first glimps out of my sleeping bag - grey; but I can't hear rain drops on the roof of my car. Half an hour later I reached the critical "gate to heaven" at Highway 94 ... oh gosh, a quew of cars lining up in front. But eventually that's a good sign. They don't turn people away ...

I am THERE. The sandfly place. "No worries" comes into my mind with a smile, as Richard Katz also dedicated the introduction to his chapter on the Milford Track during his night in the Sandfly hut. I got a straight welcome too by this anoying biting beasts. Not one, hundreds of them. But what are a few bites in front of that awesome landscape. And though I did not think to get on one of the cruising boats - here comes the sun - and off (the shore) I was ...

I am still sitting on the floor in the Milford Sound visitor's centre, my Andropad connected to a power supply socket, writing on this post. It's afternoon meanwhile and as it obviously has to be, the sun comes and goes, rain drops fall and stop. The first hikers arrive from their 4 days along the Milford Track. They are easily to distinguish from the day-visitors for the Milford Sound Cruise - heavily packed, rain gear, tough hiking boots, and nordic walking sticks. I imagine the last days out in the bush, crossing creeks and passing under waterfalls ... it must have been a wet party out there, but they all have that kind of satisfied smile on their faces telling everyone "I did it!"

 

On my way out of the Milford Sound valley I stopped at the Divide to do still a hike up to the Key Summit, the first stage of the Routeburn Track, one of the 3 great walks in the Fiordland. To get a feeling, and animated by some late sun making it through the grey. I came back to my car at 9h30 pm ... and I am sure I will do the rest of the track from the other side, approaching from Queenstown. NZ met reports on the rain forecast for the next 3 days a bit less showers ... though a local newspaper report of a Kiwi family of five "surviving and making it" on the Routeburn Track this week informs me on the challenge ahead: 2 nights in my tent up in the mountains! Wish me luck!