The Black Pearl of the South Pacific

Since my first encounter with the sea - eventually on my first holiday trip by car with friends to the mediterranian Cote d'Azur - I adore to observe the busy life in ports. The vessels in the docks and their departure towards the horizon always take me on a journey in my mind, whereas the arrangement of huge noisy machines and hard working people on and around cargo ships appear to me like a classical peace of music performed by an orchester - all just to get our food and goods in time on the shelves.

And now, 20 years after my unforgetable trip on a cargo vessel touring the "iles sous-le-vent" - Huaine, Raiatea, Taha'a, Bora Bora and Maupiti - I am standing again at the commercial pier in Tahiti, looking up to the upper deck of the "Hawaiki Nui", while several CAT forklifts are busy-like-ants moving all sorts of cargo into its big belly: containers, cars, freezing chambers, construction material, polyester outrigger canoes - the #1 regional sports equipment - and tonnes of fresh and canned vegies, food and mineral water.

Finally, half an hour after our scheduled departure our small group of 12 passengers was called for boarding, finding our way through staples of goods and narrow staircases upwards to the open deck, overlooking the commercial harbor and last busy movements of late deliveries. While arranging my place for my sleeping bag I could see that I was the only "tourist" on board. Incredible, as this is one of the most beautiful trips on a shoe-string budget within the wider Polynasian triangle of Hawaii, New Zealand and Easter island, with Raiatea being considered by Polynasians as the cradle of the ancestors and the ma'ohi civilization.

My round trip from Papeete, hopping on and off at Bora Bora and Huahine, sleeping on deck under a sky full of stars, and experiencing the contrast with the usual peace that reigns on the islands upon the arrival of the cargo boat at the principal quays, is an adventure and spectacle not to be missed - "all inclusive" at a "price tag" of 50 Euros. However, this is in line with my overall observations on business and tourism around the Society islands. In contrast with bustling development in South-East Asia and Australia over the past 20 years, time seems somewhat to stand still in Tahiti and its surrounding islands. I do not see this as a problem per se, as long as it goes along with the needs and life style of the local communities. But I do see a shift.

At Moorea, one of the two budget camping places closed down, like other small tourism-dependent family businesses along the chain of people spending their holidays outside ¨all inclusive¨ clubs. Bora Bora is not much different. The only campsite closed with the death of its owner, and the only place offering dorm-style accommodation has not been rebuilt after a fire accident a year ago. Tourism shifted to giant cruise liners, carrying some 1500 to 2500 "half-day land trip" tourists on board. They swarm out at the quay to "consume" their "all inclusive" arrangements, take their pictures, bargain quickly a souvenier, and board to the signal horn to sail on. I guess more than half of the 180000 tourists in 2012 to the Society islands - according the tourism bureau of Tahiti, 12 luxurious vessels last month alone - make part of that modern crusaders, maintaining for the group of 5 archipelagos the image of one of the most exclusive holiday destinations.

But here I am - again. Sailing into the sunset, leaving Tahiti and neighbouring Moorea behind in a sea of colors. 

The night under the stars was too exciting to get up at 2pm to watch the arrival and unloading of cargo at Huahine, but with the first daylight the shapes of Raiatea and Taha'a came up on the horizon, surrounded like all other by protective coral reefs, that sometimes have only one narrow opening to enter the amazing colorful lagoons.

And there it was: Mr. Christian's first glance at Bora Bora - the "Black Pearl" of the South Pacific. There is not much to say about Bora Bora, known to be one of the most beautiful islands in the world. It is not only the beauty of its unique shape, but mostly the unbelievable myriad of colors that the lagoon produces during day and over the seasons. But this you'll find out best by yourself. I take 2 days rest at "Chez Rosina" before sailing on to Huahine. Same boat, same route, same friendlyness, same beautyness ... au revoir.