The Spirit Bears of Princess Royal Island

Moby Dick's mouth was wide open ... ready for an adventure up the rugged coast line of British Columbia - to meet the Grizzlies in their natural habitat. Somewhere in the South Pacific I found a National Geographic Magazine with that thrilling story and amazing pictures of the Kermode Bear, a white species of the Grizzlies that live only on two islands up North. And one of them - Princess Royal Island - I just passed on board of the Northern Expedition Ferry on my way up to Prince Rupert.

 

What a great vessel, what a wonderful journey up the inner passage. Fifteen hours of splendid nature along countless islands and inlets in company of some curious whales. They don't mind the daily ferry. Nor do the bears. They're just waking up from their hibernation period and are still up in the hills, grazing on the fresh meadows. Unfortunately for me, because their feast of the season - the salmon run - is not happening before August. Hence, no salmon, no bears! It's that simple as far as it comes to get them in front of your camera. Or you book a bear sighting tour ... on a boat that takes 100 like-minded tourists ... taking pictures from the water "on arrangement" of some lonely strolling grizzly bears.

My problem is that I have a problem with "all inclusive" tours. You know what I mean: the story of the (before the digital age) so-called "Kodak-spot", where all take the picture at the same spot at the same time. Childishly, and probably inspired by Werner Herzog's documentary film "Grizzly Man", I had in mind to face them on the same ground. Like as I was driving through Botswana's National Parks to experience wildlife on my own.

So here I am. On my way back. Looking a last time towards Princess Royal Island. Just this morning I saw the bright yellow speed boat departing from the jetty ... and I was not on board. Four days of traveling, 800 dollars for bus, ferry and accommodation, and that uncertain feeling "if ..." ...

Somehow, it is saddening me. Because, getting closer, I let my desire grow, and yet no direct encounter with the grizzlies. On the other hand, I feel comfortable with the motto of my trip around the world: the journey is the reward. For this moment I know I am close to the Spirit Bears, looking up into the dense forest and snow-covered mountain crests - this is their habitat, they are out there. The last evening sun behind the big window is so beautiful, warming my body and my mind.