Iriomote - the forgotten jungle island
2020 - when Covid19 crossed my travel plans and suddenly flights between Europe and Japan got cancelled - I thought it is a surprise invitation to discover some of the remote islands stretching from Kyushu down south close to Taiwan. Wishful thinking - the 'New Normal' asked people to limit movement within their own prefecture. Eventually, the remote islanders themselves asked not to visit. Probably the frightening images from Europe made them aware of their own situation - a mostly elderly small population on remote islands with limited healthcare facilities, hospitals not to mention.
Well, the pandemic waves passed and the health system could handle the situation, as no tourists from the main islands were to show up for two years. However, small remote islands - green dots surrounded coral reefs in deep blue sea - these days mainly receive their income from tourism.
So far, so bad, as on my visit now in 2023, a soft landing for local tourism by a national 'GO TO' promotion does not show signs of recovery. I know, it is spring and the main summer season hasn't started. But walking along one of the two small ferry port villages to the campsite ... the few shops and food stalls closed, and holiday accommodation without sign of parked cars, nor people. And on my 5km walk along the coastline lot's of drift plastic garbage is still to be removed to enjoy the sandy beaches and coral gardens ... the scenery feels a bit abandoned and constant sea breeze and humid-tropical vegetation take rapidly their toll.
Eventually my campsite at Hoshinozuna Beach just opened the day before my arrival. The caretaker was surprised when I said to stay about one week ... 'One week? You must know there is often bad weather!'. And that is probably not the only challenge ahead: No facility to sit, no corner for cooking, one traditional toilet without shower ... and no electricity! I guess I'll be on my own - backpacking & camping in its purest form (to paint a smile on my face).
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