Posts

Showing posts from April, 2023

A"LINE - connecting the Ryukyu archipelago

Image
05h30 ... the alarm clock signals time to get up and walk from the nearby Nest hotel to Naha port, boarding the daily A"LINE ferry. These days most people fly in or out, as airfares mostly are cheaper and of course flights save time. But still the ferries are the backbone to connect the scattered Ryukyu islands with "mainland" Japan, that itself consists of the four major islands - Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. When it comes to 'islandhopping' my choice was clear from the conception of this journey - it has to be by ferry! As any roadtrip, the goal is not to go from A to B, but rather the encounters along the way. As it turned out, I started my Ryukyu islands adventure not as thought from Kagoshima downward island by island, but due to seasonal considerations with a flight to the most southern Yaeyama islands and then hopping back towards Kagoshima. One month into my journey - visiting so far six islands - I decided

Aguni-no-Shio - blessing of the sea

Image
Naha, the regional capital of Okinawa prefecture, serves as a gateway to scattered islands east and west. There are three ports forming a kind of ferry hub. Shipping into Tomari port back from the Kerama islands, the new Aguni ferry was already docked next the Kume ferry for tomorrow's trip - both of them providing a daily service. I decided to visit Aguni-jima - not much bigger than 7 square kilometers and just under 1000 inhabitants - because of the production of one of the most common food additives: salt. However, Aguni island salt is not any salt, but produced according to a unique and traditional method. In good mood after arrival I had my lunchbox first. Next checking one of the Minshukus for two nights accommodation. But I forgot already the hardship people were having due to Covid19. All four on my list were closed, as guests outside the main season are almost exclusively Japanese coming for diving, and travel restrictions for remote isl

Kerama islands - camping @ Zamami-jima

Image
Tripadvisor has a list (by ranking) of 26 campgrounds on Okinawa and surrounding islands. By now, my island hopping introduced me to six islands of the Ryukyu archipelago, or in other terms, 4 weeks by camping on three of them. So what about Ama Beach Campground on Zamami-jima? Interestingly it is not mentioned at all by TripAdvisor ... Today it's already a week that I arrived from Naha by ferry - on the cheaper cargo ferry a two-hour crossing with a short stop at Aka-jima. And I'm still not departing this pearl in the Keremashoto National Park. Ama Beach Campground.So close to the touristic hub Naha (Okinawa), a hidden secret in terms of camping right at an incredible turquoise beach - and still it escaped the mighty virtual eyes of TripAdvisor. Let it be like that. I won't put it on TripAdvisor's ranking on top. It's just right as it is. One of those few places - like the one at Maupiti in French Polynesia, or 'U

Zamami-jima and the rainmaker

Image
What distinguishes camping from most other ways of traveling is living with the elements - the direct impact of nature and close environment. The idea of island hopping becomes a different experience surrounded by the sounds of sea, wind and rain. And after a rainy and stormy night in the tent, the early morning birds surprise again and again. There's no doubt about the beauty as well as power of changing weather that the pearl necklace-like lined up Ryukyu islands are exposed. Today the morning sun invited me on a trail for one of the whale-spotting lookouts, but till i climbed up the condition had changed - a dark wall was approaching from north. No escape, but wide screen cinema in dolby sound. And an hour later the rainbow gave the signal for a great, sunny day out in the sea - turtels, i'm coming. I asked at the reception to organise a wetsuit (for tall alien ; ) and 15 minutes later I entered already that unimaginable colour