A"LINE - connecting the Ryukyu archipelago

05h30 ... the alarm clock signals time to get up and walk from the nearby Nest hotel to Naha port, boarding the daily A"LINE ferry.

These days most people fly in or out, as airfares mostly are cheaper and of course flights save time. But still the ferries are the backbone to connect the scattered Ryukyu islands with "mainland" Japan, that itself consists of the four major islands - Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu.

When it comes to 'islandhopping' my choice was clear from the conception of this journey - it has to be by ferry! As any roadtrip, the goal is not to go from A to B, but rather the encounters along the way.

As it turned out, I started my Ryukyu islands adventure not as thought from Kagoshima downward island by island, but due to seasonal considerations with a flight to the most southern Yaeyama islands and then hopping back towards Kagoshima.

One month into my journey - visiting so far six islands - I decided to board the 'Akebono ferry' bound for Kagoshima. This gives me the opportunity to reach my next destination - Amami Oshima - and same time pass on this trip the islands of Yoron, Okinerabu and Tokuno.

14h30 ... the 'Akebono' just departed Okinerabu-jima, now heading for Tokuno-jima. The repeating rhythm of entering a port, departing people and loading cargo, the signal horn for departure and the island disappearing slowly on the horizon is something special. The time as observer on deck is passing in slow motion, while all others are busy executing their tasks to stay on schedule.

Luckily on board there's not much to compare with a cruise ship, although nothing is missing in a relaxed atmosphere among locals and a few tourists.

Soon the ferry will arrive at its next stop at Tokuno-jima. My trip on the ferry will end with the night falling in at Amami-Oshima, the second largest island in the Ryukyu archipelago. Yet the Akebono will continue sailing all night through to arrive next morning in the port of Kagoshima.